Set out into the park on my first trip of the summer. Destination Unit 12, Sunrise and Sunset Glacier. Weather was partly cloudy, perfect hiking weather. I was out for two nights in the same basecamp. Some great photo ops while backpacking and on the bus. Here’s slide show.
Here I am in Alaska one last summer, One last summer with the Park Service that is. As Jodie and I have begun our school plan it will be a quick twelve week summer here in the park. My hope is to see the Triple Lakes Trail project completed before I say goodbye. 5 years in the making this 9 mile trail. I’ll be posting pictures of the beautiful trail as the summer progresses. Don’t worry there will be other exciting Alaska photos too.
School has been exciting, stressful and rewarding. As I mentioned in my previous post we had some heavy science classes. All very interesting especially the biology ones. Learning about cells, the integumentary system (skin and hair), muscle system, the skeletal system, and just touching the surface of the nervous system. Physics, would have been more interesting had the instructor been better. I mean who wouldn’t be fascinated to learn how things work. As proof of our busy times spent with noses in the books, late nights studying physics and shlepping heavy book-loads, we have received high marks in all our classes.
Congratulations Jode’s for making the Governors List.
Outlook for the fall: Anatomy and Physiology II, Chemistry I and Statistics. We hope to visit some schools this fall and winter as well. Possibly Grand Valley, Michigan when we are there in the early fall for a family visit. And visiting Montana and Idaho in the winter. We have kept Cali off our radar, but it might be worth a look in the spring.
So, this season gets off to a quick start being as the summer has already started and the Park seasonal staff and SCA’s have already begun working. It also is a bit more hectic as the park’s trails staff and sca crew’s are the highest I’ve experienced. We have 4 SCA crews here at a time up from 2, and at least 10 more NPS Trail Crew staff. Over the summer we will have 10 SCA crews working between the Triple Lakes Trail and the new Savage Alpine Trail. There is an 8 person Park crew spiked at the Savage Alpine Trail worksite as well. Stimulus money is to credit for the addition of crews. My job as the Trails Volunteer Crew Leader will be coordinating the logistics, ensuring quality, training, safety etc… of the SCA and other volunteer crews during their stay.
The new year brought a new plan and that was to go back to school. I am currently enrolled at Portland Community College taking prerequisite classes for a Physical Therapy Program somehwere. Not sure where yet, first things first. Classes have been time consuming. Math, Physics, Anatomy and Physiology, Cell Biology, another Math, Chemistry. And really its just started.
I will do my best to keep up with some new posts. My apologies for the lag.
Cheerio.
Nose in books
Stones
So I left off with us in Mal Pais. With 3 days in Mal Pais we rented some boards and tried some surf action. Both of us got up on the board a few times, nothing like what you’d envision if you were picturing surfers though. We were practicing just in the breaking waves getting the hang of just getting on the boards. In time maybe well get to something bigger.
Mal Pais was a fun local, temperatures and sun were intense. The town was definitely defined as a hip surf town.
From Mal Pais we headed south to the town of Montezuma where we visited a butterfly garden and met up with Matt, another friend from Alaska. He gave us a fun tour of the garden showing off the Morpho and the Owl Species in butterfly and caterpillar form. Really cool to see so many butterflies all in one space and docile too.
After a stop and swim at some local waterfalls we continued our trek south for we wanted to catch a ferry and push south on the mainland. We had the car for a week and wanted to catch as much as we could with wheels. Passing through coastal towns of Puntarenas and Jaco we ended up in Quepos. Still on the Pacific Coast and about in the middle of the country. In Quepos we had some Italian dinner and found a hotel for the night. Our plan was to hit Manuel Antonio National Park using Quepos as our jumping point. It was recommended as there are many more expensive stays as you get closer to the park.
Manuel Antonio was a fun adventure. It was a beautiful day warm and sunny. We hiked pretty much all the trails in the park spotting a slew of monkeys all within touching distance. Swam in the warm waters. Spotted a young sloth ten feet up in the tree. After the park we stopped for a drink and snack at a b-52 bomber turned bar/restaurant and watched the sunset.
From Manuel Antonio we headed inland toward San Jose and Volcano Irazu. Back in the center of the country and up in the mountains was actually shockingly cooler than the beach. Enough to put a layer on and pants.
We stayed in a small cabin Bed and Breakfast before heading up to Irazu Volcano. There weren’t many trails in this park so the adventure was a little shorter than expected. The crater was large and filled with water just a bit out of sight though. I bet in the rainy season it fills up more.
After Irazu we headed into San Jose to pick up our bus tickets to Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean Coast. Then we found a hostel in the town of Alajuela which was close to our car rental drop off. Alajuela boasts a great saturday market, fresh fruits and veggies galore. Jodes fell in love with the dulce de leche filled churros. Think fresh carmel injected into a churro. mmmm They are good thats for sure. After having one I thought she would never come home.
We loaded up on fresh fruits and veggies here before picking up our bus the the east coast. We had reserved a cabina with a kitchen for a week in the town of Cahuita. We thought it would be advantageous to bring a load of freshies with us.
Once on the road it began to rain so the ride to the east coast was a bit grey. Actually the east coast was still in its slow (wet) season, we were about a week or 2 early.
We stayed in Puerto Viejo our first night at the backpackers in town. We had some sushi and green curry for dinner, very good. Puerto Viejo felt like the east coast Mal Pais in away. The surfing wasn’t quite as big but the energy of town seemed similar. The east coast most definitely had more a rastafarian/raggae vibe. While in Puerto Viejo we walked the coast and visited the markets and street vendors.
We didn’t realize that Cahuita where we were staying for a week was actually a good 10 mile north from here. A smaller town with less energy but still a fun quaint place to stay the week. Our cabin was also about a mile out of town but still only 2 blocks from the beach made our stay even more peaceful. The Cabinas Iguanas was where we stayed. They had bicycles which we used to get back and forth. Hanging outside our cabina was a whole bunch of bananas for us during our stay. And I mean the whole bunch, about 50-60 still ripening bananas. It’s amazing how much a fresh banana tastes nothing like the ones we get in the states. There’s a hint of cinnamon and clove to it.
During our stay in Cahuita we swam a little not as much as before as the waters were a bit more intimidating, we also questioned the coral reef locations and the temperature and weather of the east coast was still warm but not so hot that you needed to be in the water. The ocean temperature was still warm like that of the pacific coast. Cahuita had a fun little restaurant that played a movie each night so we visited it a couple times through the week, we tested out ceviche from as many places we could.
One day we headed south to the town of Manzanillo, we were told of a refuge in the area. A refuge where you could hold and be closer to animals that were being rehabilitated. This refuge thing ended up being kind of a wild goose chase. It wasn’t in Manzanillo, and it wasn’t at the sloth rehab place either. The sloth place was soley sloths which we had luckily seen in the wild and didn’t feel the need to pay $25 each to see more of. At least at the sloth place we discovered that the rehab refuge wasn’t a secret place and that it probably did exist, it just wasn’t an advertised visitor destination. It was a word of mouth, need more information place. O well. We tried.
Cahuita had a ntional park as is known for it’s Coastal Reefs. We didn’t do any snorkeling but we did hike the 6 miles through the park. That was real fun. We hired a guide for a portion of it which proved valuable as he spotted and showed us things we would have walked right past. We were lucky to see bats, ants, spiders, more monkeys, snakes, sloths, butterflies and some cool plants.
On our return to San Jose we planned a river rafting trip for some adventure before our trip comes to s close. It was also a way to get back to San jose as the company picked us up in Cahuita and dropped us off in San Jose.
The river was the Pacuare it was an 18 mile raft trip with 52 rapids class 2-3+. A great day, started with a pick up at our cabin, breakfast, 18 miles of wet fun splashing around and swimming, toucan spottings 3x, hornet stings 2x (one on the ear, ouch!) seeing Jodes get wet yah!! Lunch stop along the way. More rafting! Couple of beers at the end and a trip to San Jose. It was a full fun day.
It is now our second to last night in Costa Rica. Tomorrow is a artisans market souvenir shopping day as well as a position ourselves close to the airport day.
After checking out the markets and buying a slew of gifts we walked over to the Parque de Zoological, or the zoo. We wanted to see some of the animals we didn’t get to see in the wild, including a closer spot of the toucan. At the zoo we got to see some cats, big ones, like Ocelots, cancels, jaguars. Also more birds like toucans, parrots and macaws. It was a small zoo but it satisfied me. We chowed on some ribs shortly afterwards and shuttled ourselves back to Alajuela. Jodie was having withdrawals from here dulce de leche churros. It was also to place us close to the airport. While in Alajuela we picked up some food souvenirs at the supermercado things like coffee, salsa, savory and sweet snacks.
The flight back was an adventure as well. It started out with us having to give up our salsas. They exceeded the TSA size by .5 arggg. They also took my toilety scissors. hmm.. I got here with them. strange. So our flight had a half hour delay, which isn’t much, but that left us only an hour to gather our things and go through immigration and customs in Texas before rebounding. Actually Continental had already printed new boarding tickets for us 2 days later and was going to put us up in a hotel for 2 nights. hmm if it wasn’t Houston, and the holidays maybe that would have worked. With a lot of smiles and running we were able to make our connecting flight, including rechecking our luggage with duty free alcohol now that wasn’t an issue from Rica since it was purchased beyond security screening.
Back in P-town woop woop, luggage delayed but it was accounted for and was delivered to the house, alcohol intact. whew.
Pictures follow.
Hoy es Sabado, 12-12-09
Hola from San Jose. Jodes and I are awaiting a bus to the Carribean Coast. We have a Cabina reserved for a week in the Puerto Viejo area of the south east coast.
Last I posted we had recently arrived in Tamarindo on the Pacific Coast. We stayed 2 nights there in the small gringo-ish town. Gringo towns mean there is alot of influence of tourism and travelers moving through. The original Tico (Costa Rican) essence has been marred by commercialism.
Tamarindo (tama-rin-doe) was our first beach town and provided some great beach walking and warm ocean swiming. Some good casados and even some wood fire oven pizza. Casados are a great simple way of getting a well rounded good meal. Usually coming with rice, beans, salad, a meat option and fried plantains. They usually are quite filling and a cheaper item on the menu and even if there not on the menu, the Soda (storefront, beachside, roadside restuarant) usually has them. Along with frittos papas, empenadas, pastries and a number of other cheap tipical foods.
From Tamarindo we headed further south down the Nicoya (nik-oy-a) Pennisula to the coastal town of Samara (sam-ar-a) A much quanter town with not much gringo going on. It took us about 3 hours on 3 different buses transferring in 2 towns and cost us only 3 dollars each. Costa Rica has amazing public transportation. Granted the buses are run down but for just getting places there awesome. In Samara we stayed in a hotel for the first night. We then met some friendly peeps while swimming who offered us space at there bed and breakfast. Alan, Marlene and Brian are from Arizona. Alan is a lawyer, Brian works with him and Marlene is Alan`s wife. Marlene makes a great breakfast of fresh bread, jams and spreads, fresh fruit, eggs, juice and coffee. We had a great time at La Mansion.
From Samara we rented a car and headed south once again destination Mal Pais. We were warned to take the inland routes and avoid the coastal roads due to river crossings and unsigned roads that´ll lead you everywhere but your destination. So we did that or so we thought. Once the pavement ends the real adventure begins, well actuall with the 18 inch potholes on the paved roads they too are still a roller coaster of fun.
Once the road we were on hit the ocean we new we were kinda in trouble. Especially since we had already crossed 2 rivers goated by 2 Ticos who offered to help as they assured us that the Dyhatsu GoBe would make it across the first river. It did and then we were off crossing the 2nd to find ourselves at the ocean. So we back tracked across the 2nd and found a new route. Making some progress before encountering more river crossings. Trying to avoid them since high tide reaches inland and effects these rivers. At one point we were given false information about river crossings and found ourselves 3 rivers in when we got stuck on the exit end of the river due to soft sand. This was around 330pm, darkness falls at about 5pm. Oh and there are no neighborhoods, we are in the back woods of the Nicoya Penninsula.
Immediately I am in the dirt and river trying to build some foundation for the tires, but there sand is wet and just spins under the wheels. 2 of the wheels don`t seem to be spinning at all. after about an hour I walk up ahead to see if any form of life and assistance can be found. Jodie is just behind me. No luck. But on our return to the car Louis, a tico, is there and assessing our dilemma. For the next hour Louis and I are building rocks up under the tires, clearing sand out from the undercarriage and tying a fresh cut tree to the front 2 tires and the rear 2 tires to act as paddles in a way. After a half an hour of working and resetting the log paddles or lifts we finally get some movement about a foot. In this time Louis´ family of Shirley, his esposa, Diana, his hija and 4 or 5 dogs have come to help. What was most amuzing was at some point Louis says a word that sounds like mageeber while we are tying on the logs. It took me a second but what he was referring to was MacGyver the TV show and how we were ¨MacGyvering¨ this contraption to get us out. Very funny time. With that foot of movement it was enough to get the wheels on the solid bank where we got traction to get out. Wooow! It could have been bad with a river tide coming up a meter later that night according to Louis.
We finally arrived in Cobano (co-ban-o) around 9pm and found a great community dinner happening. Jodes and I enjoyed a great pair of casados and bebidas. Then carried on to Mal Pais where we met up with my friend Kyle at his new Hostel called Carmen Creek.
We immediately got some booze in us after our adventure and since we were in friendly company. We walked around the beach and visited a discotek before calling it an evening. We stayed in Mal Pais for 3 nights surfing sunning and swimming. More on that later.
Adios for now.
Hello from the town of Tamarindo on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. The weather is… well beautiful. It´s currently 9:30pm on Miercoles (wednesday)
Jodes and I arrived last Tuesday into the main city of San Jose. We stayed in the Galileo Hostel just on the outskirts of town. Warm welcomes when we arrived accompanied with Sangrias.
While in San Jose for 2 days we walked all over town visiting the National Museum of Costa Rica, a National Parque in town, a couple fruit and artisan avenues. Lots of buses, motorcycles and friendly people. They sure do like to honk alot here.
We took the public bus out of town heading NW to the town of MonteVerde. We had plans to meet David, a friend and summer roomate from Alaska for Thanksgiving. The 3 of us enjoyed a great dinner and 3 days in this nice green hamlet of a town.
While in MonteVerde the three of us went Ziplining in the trees. We had a blast riding about a dozen cable systems, 5 really long ones approx. 1 km each. The longest zip line had us flying like superman with our feet up. Also we swang like Tarzan.
We visited Santa Elena National Parque which is in a cloud forest. Jodie and I lucked out with Spider Monkey encounters up in the trees and some bird and pretty flower spottings.
We took a guided night tour of the forest to find nocturnal creatures. Spotted a couple sloths, a tarantula, leaf ants, a snake, an assortment of bugs and sleeping birds.
While in Monteverde we also walked the Tree Canopy along bridges. Unfortunately not much wildlife activity that day.
Meals have been casadas, portions of rice and beans with salad variation, veggies and a meat choice. Some times a fried plantain too. All in all the food has been great and flavorful. The ice cream is tasty and even some of the snack food is worth writing about. The coffee yes is good, very good.
After Monteverde we parted with David. Jodie and I headed to La Fortuna via a minivan-boat-minivan. The town of La Fortuna lays at the base of Arenal Volvano. Yes it is active, but during our time there the top was shrouded in clouds. No hot rocks or lava action. But since we were in an active thermal area there was lots of hot springs. The town of La Fortuna is very rich so to speak with a number of resort like places to stay at with private hot springs.
We took a package trip which included an afternoon hike near Arenal, a viewing opportunity for evening lava (no Luck) and then buffet dinner and hot soaks at Baldi Hot Springs. All in All a good time a bit short at the springs. The springs did have some waterslides which were surprisingly scary.
Thats all for now the Internet bar is due to close. I will post-share pictures when I get back to the states.
Day One, Friday September 4th 2009
Boarding the Camper Bus at 7am, destination Wonder Lake. The sun was shinning here in C-Camp. Hard to tell what the end of the park road was experiencing. 90 miles away it could raining. But with the blueness in such abundance here on the east side it was hard not to invasion a warm sunny day in the west with the mountain hallmarking the southern horizons.
The backpack is fixed with 4 nights/ 5 days worth of nutrition, a shelter, a sleeping bag, the luxury sized sleeping pad, a stove and cook set, fuel, water filter and the necessary clothes to keep me warm and dry, How many socks you ask.. 5 pair one for each day plus 1 one comfy pair for camp or emergency. Gotta have comfy feet.
Just as expected sunny weather all along the park road. Arriving in Wonder Lake around 1pm dropped off at the McKinley Bar Trailhead. After a quick stretch and application of sunscreen I hit the trail with a 2 miles to the greatest feat of the day, The Mckinley River Bar. Even more enduring than a 5 and half hour bus ride was the crossing of the McKinley River. I had decided to take advantage of the weather and the low river flow to make my crossing in the beginning of the trip rather on day 5 when I would be unsure of conditions. River crossings can be pretty treacherous in the park. Fast cold moving glacier water that is murky and hides the possible depths of what your about to step into. It’s recommended to cross where the river takes on many braids and shallows out over a wide spread rather than single flows. My research had produced suggested crossing spots, lots of encouragement as well as so comforting news that the river was in low flow. The river was definitely low. I don’t recall water hitting my knees.
A perk of the McGonnagall Pass Trail is that it literally is a trail in the backcountry. One created by mountaineers to access Denali back in the ?? . Shortly after crossing the river I had discovered the trail. I picked up my pace for trail-less traveling in Denali can be an arduous affair. Walking in squishy tundra with tussocks and brush is exhausting. On the trail I quickly spotted 2 hikers coming my way. One I knew, Jennifer, she is a Ranger stationed at Wonder Lake. She had just returned from a night at the pass. Along with her was Sam, he had changed his mind about getting to the pass after not finding the trail and being forced to backcountry hiking the last 8 hours. The other 2 in his party had stayed back to continue to the pass.
I have forgotten to mention the Mountain is right in front of me and will remain in my view for most of the trip.
Up and over Turtle Hill I run into the other 2 hikers. They too are hiking towards me. After chatting a bit I discover they are looking for place to camp fore up ahead was either rocky or wet. We share our mutual plans at getting to the pass, say our goodbyes and hopes to see each other later on the quest.
Not far from there I find a nice bluff overlooking Clearwater Creek to set up camp. After a freeze-dried dinner of Beef Stroganoff I spot a large Bull Moose wandering in the brush about 300 feet from me. He’s huge. I am thankful he has made an appearance and that he is over there.
I had spaced on the full moon slated for the evening, but as I made my way to bed I was surely happy it came out before I went to bed. Enormous and bright.
Day Two, Saturday September 5th 2009
What a gorgeous day. It was actually hot out. I caught some rays on the hike and within 2 and half hours I was on the mountains doorstep. Wow! The mountain seems to get smaller and smaller as I get closer to it but really I just see less and less of it as it becomes more obscured by the mountains in front of me. What does become more inview though is the dynamic Alaska Range. The Muldrow Glacier, Mt. Brooks, Mount Carpe, Ice fields. A landmass of ever-changing geology. And one that in future years may not excite quite the same with climate change.
Since it’s such a beautiful day, I take a polar bear plunge in one of the pools of water on the pass. Woow, cold water.
During lunch I take a number of pictures in hopes of capturing at least a crumb of this breathtaking view.
My return hike down I was greeted by a few rock dwellers including picas, arctic ground squirrels and a hoary marmot. So cute these small fuzzy creatures. It doesn’t amaze me that these mammals live here what amazes me is that they will winter here in under 40 degree weather.
Back at camp I fix dinner of freeze dried beef sate with rice and veggies. For desert Banana cream pie with walnuts.
Day Three, Sunday September 6th 2009
About an hour from camp I hit the sun or should I say the spot where earth and sun meet. It had been about 2 hours since my morning started and I was in the shadow of mountains. The coolness of the morning was appreciated in the hike out of camp. Reaching the sunny ridge meant light and warmth, it was nice to feel the morning sun on the skin. Here on the ridge I saw the 2 dimensional map version of the trip turn 3-D.
With today starting out much a mystery I was now able to start calculating my route options as I will be hiking backcountry style with no trail and my destination is flexible. I will be picky with my route planning seeking out the easier of routes. My choices as It turned out to be a toss, the Clearwater Creek which I had anticipated to be an open river drainage was full of cottonwoods and would be a long brushy slog not to mention it’s path made a distant arc adding miles to the day. In the other hand was squishy tundra with knee high dwarf bushes and willow/alder smaller drainages. I chose the straight line of travel to Pirate Creek over the tundra and through the alders, veering from any major elevation changes.
The animal of the day was Caribou. Followed by a close Unidentified Hawk.
Just before reaching camp I spied a beautiful Bull Caribou drinking from Upper Clearwater just before Pirate Creek comes in. We shared a couple blinks, I snapped some pictures and we went on our way. Very cool!
After dinner of freeze-dried Chicken Alfredo I had thought I could hike up river a bit and reckon tomorrows crossing when I something just up river caught my eye. A caribou carcass was floating down the river. Weird timing. I was able to grab a couple pictures before it hung up right by my camp. Great, I thought, a chunk of fresh meat right outside my tent. It then began to sprinkle so I retreated to my tent to write some postcards.
Day Four, Monday September 7th 2009
After a rainy evening I was pleasantly surprised to see a clearing Monday morning sky. Today was a big day. I have the Muldrow Glacier to cross. 2 miles of rock covered ice, with pitfall lakes and rivers around every corner.
After breakfast and breakdown of camp I flanked the river gauging my crossing. I’d prefer to start the day with the least amount of water in my boots. I found a spot that widened out around a small river bar and crossed over. On the river bar I unintentionally walked through the kill site of last nights caribou. A 12 foot circle of red rocks, innards and fur fragments. I don’t want to be here I thought. Quickly I crossed the other half of the creek and thankful to the river for rinsing the blood off my boots.
With my attention a little heightened I picked up the mornings pace to put some distance between me and the kill site. I was also eager to meet the Muldrow. A couple of Golden Eagles soared over head during the day. The hike to the Muldow was pretty straight forward. I just need to get up Pirate Creek a couple miles it would lead me to the best crossing route of the Muldrow into backcountry unit 18, my camp spot for the night.
My view of the Muldrow from the west looking east was sight. At first daunting. It was definitely more alarming an endeavor at first glances compared to my day one crossing of the McKinley River. I had clear weather and could from my vantage point map out my intended route. It’s hard to believe people cross this without good weather and visibility. Again I give thanks to the sun and the clear day. The Muldrow took about 2 hours to cross. There was a lot of up and down across it’s rock and ice piles. I was able to avoid any backtracking around unseen lakes. Slid down about 6 feet of ice to cross a glacier stream. It was wild landscape.
Once across I made camp and hiked to a clear stream to filter some water. The area I was in I was familiar with having been here every year around this time. Many a grizzly sighting here. I liked it for that. No activity my hole stay in this unit.. I forgot to mention I did catch glimpse of one in the distance on my heavy tundra trudge on Saturday.
I had an early dinner of Shepherd’s Pie and hit the hay.
Day Five, Tuesday September 8th 2009
I was up @ 5:30, yep it was dark still. Today I had one goal and that was to catch the earliest bus I could to get me front country. It was Tuesday and I had a date with a pizza pie from Panorama Pizza and the Rock Creek Ramblers, a local group of park employees turned musicians. I planned a quick cold breakfast of granola and milk in order to pack quickly and hit the trail early. I would be hiking out Glacier Creek which is a highly traveled drainage and has an accompanying social trail. I hit the Thoroughfare crossing at about 8:30. The Thoroughfare is a large open river bar funneling a number of water sources. It’s probably at least 2 miles wide where I will cross it. Actually I will be crossing it diagonally towards Eielson Visitors Center so my distance is multiplied. Once at Eielson I had time to rinse my face off and board the 10am Camper Bus destined for Headquarters and home. My early rise proved successful. It also gave me the opportunity to a sunrise glow on Denali. Good Morning Alaska.
This was an amazing trip. I Highly recommend it to all.
a day by day in the works and coming soon
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