Day One, Friday September 4th 2009
Boarding the Camper Bus at 7am, destination Wonder Lake. The sun was shinning here in C-Camp. Hard to tell what the end of the park road was experiencing. 90 miles away it could raining. But with the blueness in such abundance here on the east side it was hard not to invasion a warm sunny day in the west with the mountain hallmarking the southern horizons.
The backpack is fixed with 4 nights/ 5 days worth of nutrition, a shelter, a sleeping bag, the luxury sized sleeping pad, a stove and cook set, fuel, water filter and the necessary clothes to keep me warm and dry, How many socks you ask.. 5 pair one for each day plus 1 one comfy pair for camp or emergency. Gotta have comfy feet.
Just as expected sunny weather all along the park road. Arriving in Wonder Lake around 1pm dropped off at the McKinley Bar Trailhead. After a quick stretch and application of sunscreen I hit the trail with a 2 miles to the greatest feat of the day, The Mckinley River Bar. Even more enduring than a 5 and half hour bus ride was the crossing of the McKinley River. I had decided to take advantage of the weather and the low river flow to make my crossing in the beginning of the trip rather on day 5 when I would be unsure of conditions. River crossings can be pretty treacherous in the park. Fast cold moving glacier water that is murky and hides the possible depths of what your about to step into. It’s recommended to cross where the river takes on many braids and shallows out over a wide spread rather than single flows. My research had produced suggested crossing spots, lots of encouragement as well as so comforting news that the river was in low flow. The river was definitely low. I don’t recall water hitting my knees.
A perk of the McGonnagall Pass Trail is that it literally is a trail in the backcountry. One created by mountaineers to access Denali back in the ?? . Shortly after crossing the river I had discovered the trail. I picked up my pace for trail-less traveling in Denali can be an arduous affair. Walking in squishy tundra with tussocks and brush is exhausting. On the trail I quickly spotted 2 hikers coming my way. One I knew, Jennifer, she is a Ranger stationed at Wonder Lake. She had just returned from a night at the pass. Along with her was Sam, he had changed his mind about getting to the pass after not finding the trail and being forced to backcountry hiking the last 8 hours. The other 2 in his party had stayed back to continue to the pass.
I have forgotten to mention the Mountain is right in front of me and will remain in my view for most of the trip.
Up and over Turtle Hill I run into the other 2 hikers. They too are hiking towards me. After chatting a bit I discover they are looking for place to camp fore up ahead was either rocky or wet. We share our mutual plans at getting to the pass, say our goodbyes and hopes to see each other later on the quest.
Not far from there I find a nice bluff overlooking Clearwater Creek to set up camp. After a freeze-dried dinner of Beef Stroganoff I spot a large Bull Moose wandering in the brush about 300 feet from me. He’s huge. I am thankful he has made an appearance and that he is over there.
I had spaced on the full moon slated for the evening, but as I made my way to bed I was surely happy it came out before I went to bed. Enormous and bright.
Day Two, Saturday September 5th 2009
I decided to hold off on brekkie this morning. I was planning a quick move of camp not a few miles ahead. From there I would day hike to the pass.
Finding another great spot to camp I had some breakfast and packed for a day hike up to the pass.
What a gorgeous day. It was actually hot out. I caught some rays on the hike and within 2 and half hours I was on the mountains doorstep. Wow! The mountain seems to get smaller and smaller as I get closer to it but really I just see less and less of it as it becomes more obscured by the mountains in front of me. What does become more inview though is the dynamic Alaska Range. The Muldrow Glacier, Mt. Brooks, Mount Carpe, Ice fields. A landmass of ever-changing geology. And one that in future years may not excite quite the same with climate change.
Since it’s such a beautiful day, I take a polar bear plunge in one of the pools of water on the pass. Woow, cold water.
During lunch I take a number of pictures in hopes of capturing at least a crumb of this breathtaking view.
My return hike down I was greeted by a few rock dwellers including picas, arctic ground squirrels and a hoary marmot. So cute these small fuzzy creatures. It doesn’t amaze me that these mammals live here what amazes me is that they will winter here in under 40 degree weather.
Back at camp I fix dinner of freeze dried beef sate with rice and veggies. For desert Banana cream pie with walnuts.
Day Three, Sunday September 6th 2009
About an hour from camp I hit the sun or should I say the spot where earth and sun meet. It had been about 2 hours since my morning started and I was in the shadow of mountains. The coolness of the morning was appreciated in the hike out of camp. Reaching the sunny ridge meant light and warmth, it was nice to feel the morning sun on the skin. Here on the ridge I saw the 2 dimensional map version of the trip turn 3-D.
With today starting out much a mystery I was now able to start calculating my route options as I will be hiking backcountry style with no trail and my destination is flexible. I will be picky with my route planning seeking out the easier of routes. My choices as It turned out to be a toss, the Clearwater Creek which I had anticipated to be an open river drainage was full of cottonwoods and would be a long brushy slog not to mention it’s path made a distant arc adding miles to the day. In the other hand was squishy tundra with knee high dwarf bushes and willow/alder smaller drainages. I chose the straight line of travel to Pirate Creek over the tundra and through the alders, veering from any major elevation changes.
The animal of the day was Caribou. Followed by a close Unidentified Hawk.
Just before reaching camp I spied a beautiful Bull Caribou drinking from Upper Clearwater just before Pirate Creek comes in. We shared a couple blinks, I snapped some pictures and we went on our way. Very cool!
After dinner of freeze-dried Chicken Alfredo I had thought I could hike up river a bit and reckon tomorrows crossing when I something just up river caught my eye. A caribou carcass was floating down the river. Weird timing. I was able to grab a couple pictures before it hung up right by my camp. Great, I thought, a chunk of fresh meat right outside my tent. It then began to sprinkle so I retreated to my tent to write some postcards.
Day Four, Monday September 7th 2009
After a rainy evening I was pleasantly surprised to see a clearing Monday morning sky. Today was a big day. I have the Muldrow Glacier to cross. 2 miles of rock covered ice, with pitfall lakes and rivers around every corner.
After breakfast and breakdown of camp I flanked the river gauging my crossing. I’d prefer to start the day with the least amount of water in my boots. I found a spot that widened out around a small river bar and crossed over. On the river bar I unintentionally walked through the kill site of last nights caribou. A 12 foot circle of red rocks, innards and fur fragments. I don’t want to be here I thought. Quickly I crossed the other half of the creek and thankful to the river for rinsing the blood off my boots.
With my attention a little heightened I picked up the mornings pace to put some distance between me and the kill site. I was also eager to meet the Muldrow. A couple of Golden Eagles soared over head during the day. The hike to the Muldow was pretty straight forward. I just need to get up Pirate Creek a couple miles it would lead me to the best crossing route of the Muldrow into backcountry unit 18, my camp spot for the night.
My view of the Muldrow from the west looking east was sight. At first daunting. It was definitely more alarming an endeavor at first glances compared to my day one crossing of the McKinley River. I had clear weather and could from my vantage point map out my intended route. It’s hard to believe people cross this without good weather and visibility. Again I give thanks to the sun and the clear day. The Muldrow took about 2 hours to cross. There was a lot of up and down across it’s rock and ice piles. I was able to avoid any backtracking around unseen lakes. Slid down about 6 feet of ice to cross a glacier stream. It was wild landscape.
Once across I made camp and hiked to a clear stream to filter some water. The area I was in I was familiar with having been here every year around this time. Many a grizzly sighting here. I liked it for that. No activity my hole stay in this unit.. I forgot to mention I did catch glimpse of one in the distance on my heavy tundra trudge on Saturday.
I had an early dinner of Shepherd’s Pie and hit the hay.
Day Five, Tuesday September 8th 2009
I was up @ 5:30, yep it was dark still. Today I had one goal and that was to catch the earliest bus I could to get me front country. It was Tuesday and I had a date with a pizza pie from Panorama Pizza and the Rock Creek Ramblers, a local group of park employees turned musicians. I planned a quick cold breakfast of granola and milk in order to pack quickly and hit the trail early. I would be hiking out Glacier Creek which is a highly traveled drainage and has an accompanying social trail. I hit the Thoroughfare crossing at about 8:30. The Thoroughfare is a large open river bar funneling a number of water sources. It’s probably at least 2 miles wide where I will cross it. Actually I will be crossing it diagonally towards Eielson Visitors Center so my distance is multiplied. Once at Eielson I had time to rinse my face off and board the 10am Camper Bus destined for Headquarters and home. My early rise proved successful. It also gave me the opportunity to a sunrise glow on Denali. Good Morning Alaska.
This was an amazing trip. I Highly recommend it to all.
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